Nothing is Too Profane

If you think the church is only concerned about the after life, think twice or come to Papua. The church here becomes very much part of the everydayness. Nothing is too profane to take care of. Sometimes it even involves cultivating and selling bananas or beans ;-). That’s what Father Anton Tromp, OSA, does. Well, among so many other things of course.

He is now the rector of Pieter Van Diepen Seminary in Aimas, Sorong Regency where I spend 2 days a week teaching. He is also in the financial board of the Diocese of Manokwari-Sorong, the board of LBH in Manokwari and AMA in Jayapura, the Prior of the Augustinian Order, and many other things. But don’t expect him to be that typical bureaucratic, religious leader who is waiting to be served or who is concerned only with the after life. He is certainly not. In fact, he’s so down to earth. He does all sort of things that a religious leader in other places might be reluctant to do. I’ve seen him sitting with some students sorting out beans that they were going to sell to town. He took the broom and swept the floor afterwards. One day when we were talking in his place some locals came in with a dead boar. They caught the boar but they did not know where else to go to sell it but to him. Fr Tromp weighed it and bought it at the market price, Rp 25.000/kg.

I certainly got the impression that he’s more than just a priest there. The other day I also saw some locals who came to him to tell him about someone who had been drawn in the sea for a few days but the body had not been found up to that moment. And I’ve heard someone in Manokwari who’s having a problem with his house called him up for help. They come to him with problems, real problems to be solved. In other words, he is their actual leader. Moreover, I just heard from other priests that the people around the place love him a lot.

Talking to him about Papua is like talking to an encyclopedia. He knows so much about Papua. He said to me, “I know most of Papuan. Pick one name and I could tell you what his/her father or family has done in the past. I know all of their sins.” Isn’t he funny? But it’s probably true because he has been living in Papua for 37 years. He came to Papua in 1970 when he’s 24. He’s been in Papua longer than he had been in the Netherlands, his original homeland. He is now an Indonesian citizen.

Fr Tromp is an illustration of the role of the churches in Papua which is certainly not to be underrated though of course not all priests are loveable and serving like him ;-). The churches had been here long before the government (Indonesia) came. Papua just joined the Republic of Indonesia after the referendum (Pepera) in 1963 while the missionaries had already been here since around 1855. These missionaries were the ones, with small air crafts, who went to those remote, isolated places where no one had ever stepped foot before. They, both Protestant and Catholic, play a significant role here in Papua. In the past, the Dutch arranged that the Protestant went to the north and the Catholic went to the south. It’s all different now though I could somehow still feel the sentiment. I was asked so many times about my religion. I don’t quite know how to answer it. Faith is a tricky subject to define ;-).

On Sorong

Now let’s talk about the town where I’m living now, Sorong. The town lies at the “mouth” of the Bird Head of Papua Island. There are many other small islands surrounding the town. It’s a small town with around 160.000 – 170.000 people. Nevertheless, it’s already considered a big town in Papua that has only about 3 million people living in the whole island. In the past, Pertamina owned most parts of the town. Sorong has everything that a small town normally has: shops, supermarkets, banks, hotels, restaurants, hospitals, etc. And as I said earlier, you could find almost everything here.

But honestly, nothing is really interesting or beautiful about the town. Rain that has been pouring the town everyday over the past 3 months has destroyed most of the low-quality streets and has created so many potholes. The rutted sidewalk and the front yard of most buildings or houses look dreadful. I really think that the municipal government should work harder on the cleanliness of the town. There is no sin in making a town clean, pretty and in order, isn’t it? They don’t have to evict anyone to do that, do they ;-)?

The landmark of the town I guess is what they call “tembok” (wall). Some of them call it “tembok Berlin” which I find it bizarre since there is no resemblance whatsoever either in shape, meaning or history with that historical wall in Berlin. Anyway, it’s not an official name so let’s leave it there. Tembok is a hangout place. As the name suggested, it is the wall or fence around 1-2 meters high that is built along the coastline from Lido to the harbor which is about 2-3 km long. It’s painted blue. And I find it ugly.


But that’s the only place where you could sit to watch sunset because there is practically no sand beach in town. In fact, it might be specifically built for that purpose because it looks more like a bench. Unfortunately, I haven’t seen a spectacular sunset since my arrival. Probably it’s because of the weather. Young people who don’t bother with sunset could just hang out there with some friends to watch the passersby. The main attraction of the wall is probably “the food court” that is some warung tegal (hawkers) at the one end of the wall that open at night and sell variety of food like ayam bakar, bakso, soto, nasi goreng, cap cay, coto makassar, pisang epe, etc. Not the typical local food, for sure.

One thing I like about the town though is its public transport. You could get around the places by “taksi” as the locals call it though it is actually a yellow minibus (or “angkot” as known by other Indonesians). The fare is Rp 2.000 to anywhere plus some loud, very loud, music ;-). There’s no “kenek” (assistant to the driver). So, to get the door closed every time a passenger gets off, the driver pulls a rope which its other end tied to the door. Convenient! Unlike Jakarta in where everything seems to be in a rush, here you could actually take your time to get in or get off the taksi. The driver or other passengers will wait for you patiently and won’t slam the door behind you. That is never going to happen in Jakarta where the bus is already taking off before your feet even touch the ground.

But you know what the biggest problem that this town has? No teh botol here ;-). Damn! In Jakarta or other cities in Indonesia, one can easily find teh botol in every corner. I feel like I was in a foreign country … Hiks!

Bad Haircut Won't Kill

I just witnessed something stupefying today! I entered the pavilion in Bintang Timur clinic where Shinta was staying and couldn’t believe what I saw in there. I’ve never seen this in my life. In there, Shinta was cutting Debby’s hair. What’s so strange about that? Well, what could possibly go through your mind when you let someone who has never had any single training as a hairdresser in her whole life cut your hair?

I couldn’t bear that thought. It took me years to finally find a hairdresser to whom I entrusted my hair. I’ve never attempted another hairdresser until now. It was like finding your soul mate ;-).

I just want to underline the importance of a hairdresser in one’s life … ergh … I mean in my life. Why? Because it is you who will bear all the consequences of every single thing s/he does with your hair. It is you who will walk with funny looking hairstyle for many months if s/he has done something wrong. And the thought of paying someone to make you look funny is utterly excruciating!

So, I nervously watched Shinta’s hands as the hands ungainly moving around the hair to perform the task. It was plain to see how inexperienced those hands were. I was trying to look for a trace of doubts in Debby’s face or anxiety in Shinta’s face. Nothing! In contrast, they both seemed so relaxed like it was a normal thing to do. I restrained myself from stopping them. Debby, a Sangir girl who works in the clinic, wasn’t bothered much with the rough looking hairstyle that she now has. And Shinta, the girl from Larantuka, appeared to be as calm as any other experienced hairstylists who just completed her work. I didn’t offer any comments. I was still in a state of shock. I later found out that many people in Sorong do this that is having friends or family cut their hair though there are actually some hairdressers in town.

But I guess I envy them for taking their hair not too seriously as most people in a different “Lebenswelt” do. It’s like they are saying to me: It’s just hair, so what? They’ll grow. There are so many other important things to worry about in this life. Bad hairdo won’t kill you, will it? Nah!

From A Distant Land

I’m just being thrown to a far-away land. Welcome to Papua! I finally landed in Sorong, Papua on September 1st, 2007 after a long flight with 2 layovers (that means 3 takeoffs and 3 landings … phew!).

A new episode has just begun.

I was told by the Archdiocese with whom I flew to Papua that Sorong was actually quite big of a town. Hm, I didn’t quite believe him and I chose to play safe. So, I brought so many stuffs with me thinking that Papua was “supposedly” the least developed region in Indonesia where you could not find anything but only the very, very basic stuffs. I packed my bag like I was about to go to South Pole or Timbuktu or somewhere like that. Fortunately, they didn’t charge me for the overload baggage. But to my disappointment, I soon found out that Sorong had almost everything I needed! I could find my shampoo, my soap, my milk, my tissue there ;-). I also could easily find satay, soto, martabak, Chinese food. And, they even have KFC! Ah, there goes my exotic, tribal island! There goes my plan to use this chance of forcing myself to go on diet based on the knowledge that the food would be so plain. Truly disappointing!

Wait, but that’s only Sorong, the city, that I know only for 3 days now. The truth of the matter is I ain’t seen nothing yet for I haven’t been to those remote places, up in the mountain, or to other part of Papua which I’m sure would captivate me. So, I shouldn’t kill that hope yet ;-).

Another surprise is to see so many non-Papuan here in Sorong. Some people even told me that the non Papuan actually outnumber the native Papuan. They mostly come from Sulawesi (Makassar, Toraja, Manado), East Nusa Tenggara, Ambon, Java and I see some Chinese. But it all makes sense because Sorong, being a harbour, is actually a gate to Papua island, the “closest” to Indonesia ;-).

I’m interested to find out more about the people. It should be interesting. I’ve already heard about the heavy drinking habit and BNS (Baku Naik Sembarang) the free sex culture that placed Papua as the region with the highest rate of HIV/AIDS infection. But for now, let’s hold all the judgment …